1-4 TOQUES Image

1-4 TOQUES

This story is primarily about sailing along the coast of the French Rivera by a dad and son. It is in a sense a fictional travel log in that each individual episode addresses a particular port-of-call along the Rivera's coast following the initial episode that creates the itinerary for the cruise. A portion of the cruise involves only the dad and the wife who joins him in Villefranche-sur-Mer for several weeks.There are two major land excursions included in the itinerary for the benefit of supporting the son's future.

NOTE: The persons and dog are ficticious, but the places are real.

 

PLANNING THE CRUISE

Dad had retired early at the age of 49 in New Orleans. He had started and sold 2 very successful consulting firms by that time. It was for his 50th birthday celebration that Wife threw a party for all of their major friends at Galatoire's in the French Quarter that set his course for next several decades. Dad had made a flipchart presentation at the party where he laid out his activity desires for the next 30 years. (He had been trained to use flipcharts at IBM following B-School. PowerPoint didn't give him the freedom to be dynamic in making his points.) The top priority was to follow a dream of bareboating along the coast of the French Rivera where he would charter and crew a sailboat. The The list also included 1 month of skiing in Utah/Colorado each year, as well doing wine tasting at all of the wineries In Sonoma, CA. He and Wife had already completed Napa and Carneros.

Dad had been sailing since he was 20 beginning with a 17ft Barneget sloop common to the NE. After selling his first consultancy at the age of 35, he made the substantial upgrade to a 40ft Caliber sloop on Lake Pontchartrain North of NOLA. 

He named the boat 'Sweet Sale' as a play on words having sold his first consultancy. With his retirement, It was now time to go to the next level of charting a sailboat in the Mediterranean bare of paid crew and supplies. Although Sweet Sale is a cruiser capable of a Transatlantic crossing, he decided that challenge would follow the success of the Med cruise. However, for this cruise there was one major issue he had to address. He needed a crewmember. While Wife was a very capable first mate, her thriving law firm in NOLA could not do without her for the expected 4-month duration in the Med. He had considered several of his peers at the NOLA Yacht Club, but he was not comfortable with the availability of the other retired members that were at least 20 years older than him. Wife and he discussed various possible crew members, but they only came up with one possibility. It was their 22 y/o son that had applied 2 months earlier to Stanford's MBA program.

Starting when Son was 6, the two continued building a strong relationship via the many things they did together including sailing, snow skiing, cooking, and even building furniture. However now, Son was on his own driven pursuit to obtain his MBA as soon as possible. He was very determined to be the entrepreneur that his Dad was. It was clear to him that he would need an MBA just as his Dad had achieved at the beginning of his career. Son's drive was well understood and encouraged by his parents. But, the timing of this cruise would mean a 1-year delay for Son to enter Stanford. Wife and Dad discussed how to approach him. It was decided that Wife would introduce the cruise to Son as a point of ongoing 'companionship' and a rare opportunity that would most likely not come again once Son began his professional career. Dad saw this as a weak argument. "After all, I won't even be 60 when Son is well on his way and able to take the time for such an excursion".  The wife responded, "Really? You want to wait until then with the possibility that Son could be well into a family of his own? No!, the case needs to be made for NOW!"  Dad accepted her argument, and Wife planned to approach Son the next Sunday over drinks before dinner at the NOLA yacht club.   However, on that Saturday the strategy changed. Son received a letter from Stanford stating that he would have to demonstrate his ability in the working world for at least 1 year before being accepted. This was a point that Stanford used in qualifying the thousands of applicants having just received their undergraduate degree and with no meaningful work experience. Son was distraught when he read the temporary-rejection letter to his parents that evening. Being quite agitated he said;, "Really? Stanford responds with a Catch 22. I need to have an applicable work experience to be accepted in the MBA program. BUT! I need the MBA to get that experience."  Dad paused and then responded, "I do understand your point. But that is Stanford's approach." He paused again, "Actually, Mom and I have an idea that we were going to speak with you about over drinks at the Club tomorrow. And now, given Stanford's position, we can make your and our plans work beautifully for all of us." "Sure Dad, you always have a plan.", he said somewhat sarcastically. Son often used that tone when he was not happy with a situation. Wife quickly cut in, "Really Son, you are going to love our plan. I promise you.", as she followed with a hug and a kiss on the cheek. Softening his tone, "Ok, so what is this plan that is SO good for all 3?" Dad paused again as a point of emphasis, and then spoke, "We will first go to the club for drinks and dinner tomorrow and discuss it there. Given the letter, I want to do put together some additional structure. You have to wait until then. You may not recognize it now Son, but I think your temporary rejection is going to work well for you both in the short and long term."  "Whatever Dad", as Son turned and went up the stairs to his room. Dad looked at wife, winked and said "This is working out perfectly Love." She nodded her agreement.

SON's BACKGROUND

In addition to the Son pursuing his professional career, the parents had noted his passion for cooking. NOLA offered the perfect environment for that, but primarily limited to the Creole and Cajun recipes so richly presented there. Dad and Son would take on both new and traditional recipes often inviting friends to join them in their spacious kitchen (gas only, no electric)  The absolute favorite recipe cookbook of the many that they possessed was the "New Orleans Cookbook' by the Collins husband and wife team. They owned the coveted first edition.  

Unintentionally, cooking with his parents planted the seed for Son's future. Beginning in his middle teens, Son became increasingly involved with the preparation of dinner. Dad and Wife took turns with the entrees, with Son's responsibility being that of assembling/creating the salads. By the time he graduated from high school, he was sharing in the making of the entree as well. At first, Son would be responsible for the set up of the ingredients for the entrees. Then as Dad and Wife performed the steps of making the entree, they would instruct Son with the intent of having him do the cooking in the future. During the summer preceding his entering Louisiana State University (LSU), Son was the Chef at least 2 nights a week. Often Dad noticed that Son's entrees were often quite different in taste than his own. When Son was asked about the differences in his preparation. he explained that he was practicing what he had seen on the Web in various cooking videos. Simply, he was testing the use of various spices and other ingredients to create unique favors.  Although not always successful, Dad took note of Son's serious interest in the culinary arts and made a mental note as to what he would provide Son at some time in the near future.. Now, the Med cruise being planned provided an ideal opportunity for professional training in a particular village on the French Rivera of which Dad was aware. Dad believed that Son needed to be on his own once he knew the basics, which he now had.  Dad understood that parental point from his father who dealt with him in the same way.  His father was willing to let him experience his own failures, but in a safe fashion.  

Dad recognized Son's competitive spirit when skiing together. Since Son was 16, it had always been a challenge between the two on the most difficult ♦♦ slopes. It was not until Son was 19 with Vöiki Mantra, All Mountain skis and Technica Cochise boots that he was superior in cutting through the glades. Dad had graciously accepted Son's advancement, and no longer were there bets as to who would pay for drinks during après ski; Dad always bought the dinners. Contrarily, it was not the same when sailing Sweet Sale. That was always a team effort with the two alternating as to who took the helm and who handled the sheets (the lines) for the sails. In both skiing and sailing, each had developed full respect for the other's skills.

THE PLAN, almost

The Sunday dinner at the club was nearly a weekly tradition for them for the last 15 years since the purchase of Sweet Sale. Each Sunday the club offered its Prime Rib special that was generous in its portions and a great occasion for meeting with the other club members. The Club's special included both Yorkshire pudding as well as Gratin Dauphinois. The deserts varied each Sunday, but were usually a mixture of Cajun dishes given the series of Sous Chefs over the years. During the months of April through June, soft shell crab would be alternately substituted for the prime rib as the special. In these cases the Gratin Dauphinois was replaced with a dish including the 'trinity' of vegetable (green bell pepper, onion, and celery) that are diced and cook in fat similar to mirepoix used in traditional French cuisine.

At 6, the 3 arrived at the Club and sat at their normal table next to the bar overlooking the docks. The server approached, "The usual Sir?" Dad responded, "Actually we will start with a bottle of Cristal Champagne. We are celebrating tonight. Also, bring an extra flute." "Yes Sir!" responded the waiter with a broad smile. He knew that Dad always tipped handsomely and that $250 bottle of Champagne alone would result in at least $40 in his pocket. The Son smiled and started with, "Well, this must be a really good plan you two have." Dad was quick to respond, "It is Son. But first we will toast, and then I will provide the details. The plan takes full advantage of your 1 year delay in entering Stanford by building an ever greater CV for their consideration of your enrolliment at that time."

The server returned shortly with the Crystal, 4 lead-crystal flutes etched with the club's insigne, and a bowl of mixed nuts. He removed the cork's retaining wire the required 5 twists and gently edged the cork out with only the slightest pop. He then carefully filled 3 of the flutes that he held tilted to not 'startle' the Champagne. While the Crystal was being served Dad motioned to pour some Crystal in the 4th flute. "Young man, please join us in this toast with this most amazing Champagne." "Yes Sir!" With all served, Dad started: "Cheers and best wishes to our loved and loving Son. May his future match his kind and very talented mind." With cheers and clicking of flutes around, the server finished his half-flute and departed knowing not to return until motioned to by Dad.

Son spoke first, "Thanks Dad. I wish not to rush you .... BUT, I do. What is the plan?" Dad took another sip of the Champagne and sat back in his chair. "Son, do you recall my top priority desire that I presented during my 50th birthday party?" "Yes, of course. You desire to sail the coast of the French Rivera." "Correct!, However, I need a sailing mate since Mom cannot afford to be away from her law practice for 4 months. So now, with your one year delay before you can apply again to Stanford's MBA program, you are the best choice to join me on this amazing cruise." Dad paused and began again hearing no comment from Son. "I have developed the itinerary for the 4 months which I think you will greatly appreciate and desire. The itinerary provides for some extraordinary experiences that can provide you with an excellent CV to be presented to Stanford in a year for admission." "OK Dad. I am all ears." "To start with, the Ports of Call will be Monaco first, followed by Cap-d'Ail, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Antibes, Cannes, St. Tropez, Marseille, Cap d'Agde. Son then interrupted him, "But Dad, taking a cruise along the Rivera for 4 months would not be viewed very well on its own, I believe. I am struggling with what I can do professionally within a year that will mark be as good candidate yet alone only 8 months." "Dad restarted. "Let me finish, and then you can state your points, that is if you will have any after you hear what I have to say."

SELLING THE PLAN

"Mom and I understand your desire to start your own company once you have an MBA. Right?' Son nodded. "We also know your passion for the culinary arts. And, you have often mentioned that there is not an American equivalent to Michelin Star ratings across the U.S. Such restaurants only exist in LA, Chicago, San Francisco, and NYC. As you know, even NOLA does not have access to that rating system due to the lack of Michelin personnel to do the evaluations here." He paused for a moment, as he often does, to maintain the attention of his audience. "So what does the combination of the 3 points of

MBA, lack of an American rating system equivalent to Michelin Star, and your culinary passion suggest to you Son?" Dad waited for Son to take all of that into consideration. Suddenly, Son raised his flute in the air. " WOW!, what a great idea Dad. Give me a moment while I think of a name for this venture." Mom quickly spoke up, "I think that 'TOQUE' ('Chef's hat') suggests both charm and haute cuisine." Son smiled and said "Accepted Mom. Toque it will be."

NOTE: The Michelin Guide was first introduced in 1900 to encourage the purchases of automobiles, and hence tires. In 1926, a single Star rating was introduced. In 1936, the ratings were increased to include zero, 1,2, and 3 stars.

Son started.  "Really super idea Dad. So again, what does the 4-month cruise have to do with a Toque rating system?"  Dad smiled and sat up in his chair and finished the bottle by refilling the 3 flutes. "This is the brilliant part that Mom and I have agreed to doing. ... that is, subject to your agreement. There are 2 educational opportunities that we will pay for during the cruise that will serve you well in pursuing a Toque rating system, and then your application to Stanford." Son sat up in his chair taking a long sip of the Champagne. Dad continued, "The first is the French language school in Villefrance-sur-Mer, Institut de Français.This is a 4-week total-immersion program as to the language and French cuisine. Our itinerary is aligned with being in that village for you to go directly into the program." "WOW! Dad, but" "Permit me to proceed, and I will come back to your obvious question in a moment. The second program is a 4-week immersion, again, into the art of French cooking. That is Gastronomicom in Cap d'Agde that is at the end of our sailing. You and I will be taking that program together." "I mean WOW! Dad. Of course I want to do that. It will be fantastic part of my CV that sets up my opportunity to put together the Toque rating system." Dad continued. "Now, to answer your unspoken question, I first have something for your Mom." He then handed an envelope to Wife. "Darling, open the envelope please." She looked puzzled as she used her index finger to open the envelope. When she pulled out the contents, she was even more confused. It was a first class, round trip ticket on Delta to go to Villefrance-sur-Mer." She noted the dates of the travel and then stated, "But, I can't do this trip. I have my calendar completely booked for that period with very interesting new clients that I would never expected to engage the firm." Broadly smiling, Dad said. "No you don't Love. Those appointments are not real. Ellen, your personal secretary, and I falsely scheduled your calendar to keep you available to come to Villefrance-sur-Mer and sail with me while Son is in the school there" Like Son, she responded "WOW!, you Devil you" "So Son, you now the answer to your unspoken question as to what I will be doing during your 4 week experience in Villefrance sur Mer." All finished their Champagne with a click of the flutes

MONACO

Dad decided for he and Son to take the earlier Delta flight-combo, via JFK, that left New Orleans at 11:14 AM and arrived the next day in Nice at 8:15 A.M. The alternative flight-combo via Atlanta arrived later at Noon. Dad had purchased First Class tickets, which provided seats that could be transitioned to flat beds on the flight across the Atlantic. With both dinner and breakfast service, they would be well rested and fed during the 8 hour flight. Dad had arranged for each of them to have a window seat on the right side to view the crossing of France and especially the landing in Nice with its spectacular coastline. Also, Dad knew that on the odd-number flight from JFK, that the best seats were towards the front of First Class so as to provide them the first choices of the various meals offered. (On the returned flight of NCE to JFK, which was a even-number flight, he chose seats at the rear of First Class since they would have the first choices of meals.). Since this was Son's first international flight, Dad warned him of not consuming too much of the endless pour of wine and Champagne that was available to him. Dad also suggested to Son that he tell the Flight Attendant not to wake him for breakfast if he was asleep. They would eat their lunch in Monaco. 
 
 
Once in the Nice airport, Dad made arrangements to have most of their substantial luggage to be delivered to the boat-charter service in Monaco. They then caught a SNCF train that was another 50 minutes in arriving in Monaco. He chose the train versus the metro/ bus combo that would take an extra hour at least, although very scenic along the coast. However, the train route along the coast provided glances of two of the ports they would be visiting on their boat: Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cap-d'Ail. The extra time by taking the JFK connection would permit some exploration in Monaco before boarding their boat. The extra time in Monaco permitted them to spend some time there before departing the next day in the morning. The next sailing leg would be Cap-d'Ail arriving in the early afternoon, that is depending upon the weather. With his numerous trips to Cote Azure in the summer, he had rarely experienced weather in which he could not sail safely.
 
Arriving at the Monaco station, they made the long walk underground to the outside. Upon exiting the station's entrance, the grand Port Hercules of Monaco presented itself with its wealth of powered and sailing yachts. However, their boat was not in this harbor but rather in PorFontvieille just around the mountain to the West. This smaller, but very charming, port was for the charter services and those individuals waiting for their opportunity to dock in the prestigious Port Hercules at a rate no less than €1,500 per day. 
 
Before proceeding to their vessel, Dad decided to have lunch first since neither had the breakfast service on board the Delta flight. Dad pointed to the Café de Paris, Monte Carlo that had a formidable sitting area adjacent to the marina. Once seated at a table, Dad told the waiter that they would first have a pichet rose avec beaucoup glacons as well as a carafe de eau, and then they would order their food shortly. "Really Dad? They serve rose here with ice cubes. How un-French is that?" "Not at all Son. Along the Mediterranean, rose is most often served with ice cubes on the side given the heat. I did asked for 'much' ice cubesMy French is a bit limited, but the waiter understood." Smiling he continued, "You now have had your first true French culinary lesson." The waiter returned with the 'pichet' (i liter) of rose, carafe of water, four glasses, and a bowl of ice with a spoon to pick up the ice. He handed each of them a menu and stated he would return at their request via a hand signal. Dad continued, "After Lunch, I will contact the charter service and they will provide a water shuttle to our boat in the other harbor. As to lunch, I really enjoy just baguette stuffed with brie and the pâté de maison. I have never enjoyed a large déjeuner in France." Son then said, "Actually Dad, I am a bit starved. Soooooooo, having looked at the menu I will have the Omelette de la mère Poulard and a petite nicoise salad." "Son, you will soon experience your next two additional French culinary arts, I refer first to a classic French omelet and second the nicoise salad that it is so called due to its origin in Nice. While son filled the glasses 2/3 full before the addition of several ice cubes each, Dad pulled out the map of Port Fontvielle noting the position of the Chartering Service's office. Dad then called the Service stating that they were in Monaco and would call them after their lunch. The individual asked where they were at that point. When Dad responded, the individual said they would send a shuttle boat to pick them up at 4:30. He also mentioned that their luggage had been delivered and was on their boat as well as some basic supplies that Dad had requested a week earlier. The plan was to do most of the initial shopping in Cap-d'Ail given the significantly lower costs.
They had finished their meal and rose by 3 PM. With more than an hour until being picked up, Dad ordered 2 tango panachés, a traditional Monaco drink made from equal parts of grenadine syrup, lemon soda, and beer. With the drinks delivered, Dad spoke, "Cheers to us for this extraordinary trip my Son." "Cheers Dad" as they clicked their glasses. While they waited for their shuttle, Dad went into some brief discussion regarding each of the ports they would be visiting. Once he had done that, Son asked questions about the two excursions he was to experience. At 4:30 sharp, Dad saw the arrival of the outboard from the Charter service. He paid la addition. Noting that it was menu's prices were service compris, he left a €5 tip nonetheless. Son would continue to notice this practice of his dad throughout the 4-mounth trip. 
 
The shuttle was a fast 25ft, open cockpit craft with (2) 200Hp outboards. It was less than 15 minutes when they left Port Hercules, rounded the mountain, and then entered Port Fontvielle. The entrance to the port was spectacular. What this port lacked in size, it made up in its charm and beauty. Upon arrival at the dock for the Charter Service, Dad immediately spotted their boat for the next 4 months. Before buying his Caliber in the U.S., he had chartered a 40ft Hunter several times and had specifically chosen this U.S.-built vessel over the inferior, French-built, 40ft Beneteau offered by the Charter Service. With the necessary papers signed, they were on-board 'La Vie'. in 5 minutes. Upon entering the below deck cabin, there was a bottle of Veuve Clicqout Champagne and 2 flutes.  Dad mused, "How did they know my favorite Champagne?" The rest of that evening was spent stowing their gear on-board and enjoying the Champagne on the open deck in the back. Even they were well rested on their flat beds across the Atlantic, Dad knew that morning would come 7 hours earlier than for which their internal clocks were geared. At 10 PM, they headed for their respective beddings. Dad took the V-bed at the front, and Son settled in the aft bedding under the helm.
They both awakened at 8. Son was sent out to a local patisserie to find croissants and croque monseirs if possible. Meanwhile, Dad took an inventory of the critical rigging, including the sheets for the main and jib.  There was no spinnaker in the fo'c'sle or spinnaker pole, which was disappointing to him. Also, the boom vang was not rigged. He thought, 'Clearly, these guys don't appreciate 'running before the wind'.  However, there was enough line and pulleys to rig his own vang. Son returned with 2 croque-monsieurs and 2 café cremes. 
 
After enjoying their petite déjeuner on the aft deck, they made a final check of the required items for their sailing, With the exceptions noted by Dad earlier, they were set to depart the dock. Suddenly, they heard the individual that they met the previous night yelling to them from charter office. "S'il vous plaît, attendez messieurs" Dad noticed he had a gorgeousous English-Cream Golden Retriever by his side as they ran towards their boat. The dog was not on a leash and arrived at the boat first. The dog immediately jumped from the dock to the aft deck and sat behind the steering wheel on the padded bench. Dad and Son were puzzled by what was happening. When the individual arrived, he caught his breath and stated, "Messieurs, this dog, 'Jazz' was the property of the previous owner of this boat who was a musician from New Orleans in the U.S. Monsieur died 3 weeks ago, and we purchased this boat from his daughter in the U.S. Jazz came with the boat, and we have been caring for him since then. As you can see, Jazz desires to be on the boat. Would you messieurs consider taking him onboard for your trip and leaving him in Cap d'agde when you drop off the boat in 4 months?" He paused, "Our personnel in Cap d'agde understand the situation, and they are willing to accept the dog." Dad looked to Son, "What do you think? Jazz was now licking Son's left arm. Son replied. "Ahhhhh, I'm game Dad." Dad then turned to the individual, "Bring us whatever dog food you have, and we will taked Jazz on." "Merci beaucoup, I will be back shortly with 2 bags of dog food and 2 dishes to serve him his food and water. Also, Jazz loves the water, and he is able to get back onto the boat with the platform at the stern. He does understand basic commends in English and French."
 
Once they received the dog food and dishes, Dad started the engine as Son released the lines from the dock. Within minutes, they were out of the dock and motoring out of the port. Jazz went to the foredeck to enjoy the wind. Approaching the open water  Dad killed the engine, and Son then raised first the main, and then the jib. Both sails quickly filled as Dad turned the vessel into the wind for a starboard tact and eliminating any luffing. They were now underway on their voyage. From his experience with Hunters in the past, he could feel the vessel responding handsomely.  Entering the Med., Dad turned to Son and said, "La Vie is yar!" Son knew the Katherine Hepburn reference. They both raised their arms into the air in celebration of this forthcoming 4-month adventure. Jazz barked twice from the bow.
 
Cap-d'Ail

For the sailing leg to the next port-of-call, Cap d'Ail, it would take less than 2 hours. However, once in open water, Dad decided to put La Vie through some simple maneuvers to refresh both his and Son's agility in dealing with the sheets in tacking as well as jibing. This was not Lake Pontchartrain, and during the trip they would most likely be confronted with conditions more extreme than back in NOLA. He also wanted to observe Jazz's dealing with all of their activity in handling the sails. Fortunately, it would be quickly demonstrated that Jazz was unaffected by the activity and simply laid at the bow facing and enjoying the wind. Based upon the wagging of his tail, Jazz particularly enjoyed the occasional spray from a wave as La Vie plowed through it.

Using the boat's VHF radio, Dad called the Port Master in Cap d'Ail to inform him of their arrival in several hours and to get info as to where the boat should dock. They could anchor in the harbor, but there were too many supplies to obtain to deal with a shuttle. Additionally, Dad didn't yet know of Jazz's routine on the boat weather anchored in the harbor or being in a slip. He would soon come to understand that Jazz could take care of his needs in either case; Jazz was 'boat broken'. 

As they approached the entrance to the port, Son lowered and secured the sails, and Dad started the engine to motor in. The marina was modest in size, and they were able to find their designated slip easily. Arguably, this French city was best known for its beach, Plague Mala, with its unique beauty and obscurity. Therefore, Dad had decided to spend an additional day in this port to take advantage of this treasure. But first, they would spend the rest of this day in obtaining the necessary supplies for. a significant portion of the trip. It was Dad's decision to only provide supplies for breakfast and cocktails in the evening on the boat. Lunch and Dinner would be enjoyed on shore. He justified this decision as part of the exposure for Son in pursuing his French culinary skills.

For dinner that evening, Dad made reservations at Primo Amore by Pappagallo, which had a perfect 5.0 score as to all 4 measurements based on 236 reviews: food, service, value, and atmosphere. This score was additionally impressive in that it was for Italian cuisine in a French city. In his extensive domestic and international travels, Dad had never seen a perfect score.

Indeed, the food and service were excellent. But what really caught Dad's attention was the appetizer, focaaccia perdue caramel poisson-beurre. This was stalfoccaccia (perdue = lost) in which butterfish had been incorporated. It was then dipped in an egg mixture and browned in butter in a sauce pan (think an extraordinary French Toast), This was another cuisine tip for Son.

The following morning, Dad was awakened at 7 by a soft, wet touch on his left cheek.  Jazz had come down to the V-birth and sat patiently on the bedding after licking Dad's face. With a slight moan, Dad sat up and embraced the dog in his arms saying, "Really Jazz?" As Dad stood up, Jazz went back into the galley and sat by his empty bowls,  Dad put on his bathing suit and then filled one bowl with water and the other with 1 cup of dry dog food. As Jazz 'inhaled' the food, Dad went up on deck for a quick swim in the marina.  Diving from the transom, he was soon followed by Jazz jumping in after him. Upon Dad coming back onboard after several minutes, Jazz continued to swim around near the stern and occasionally diving down for a moment, as if pursuing fish, and then resurfacing. This dog was a natural for being around and in the water. As Dad dressed, Jazz was soon by his side below deck. Dad proceeded to grill some sage sausages, including one for Jazz, which had been purchased the day before. The scent and the sizzling of the sausages cooking awakened Son. Along with the 2 croque messieurs that they had also purchased on shore, they enjoyed their first meal onboard.  Jazz was served his sausage in his bowl so as to not encourage begging during meals. Within an hour, they had finished stowing the supplies from the day before and were prepared to leave the marina.

Dad decided to motor the short distance to Plague Mala and anchor in its prestigious cove over night. As they turned from the sea towards the cove, they could see the two restaurants with their private beachfronts. The perfectly clear water varied from light bluish-green near shore to dark blue further out due to the vegetation and depth of the water. Dad and Wife had been to Edenwith its red motif, on their honeymoon. Just starting his Consultancy at that point meant that money was a bit tight and Eden was significantly less expensive than the other restaurant, La Reserves, with the white motif. This time, Dad and Son would enjoy both: Eden for lunch and La Reserves for dinner thereby requiring anchoring in the cove overnight.

Unlike when sailing in Lake Pontchartrain, Dad decided to use tandem anchoring for a more secure mooring. This meant that there was an anchor placed at both the bow and the stern of La Vie. Once the boat was secured as to sails and the cabin, Son called for the boat-taxi to take them to shore. Jazz stayed on the deck since dogs are not permitted in the swimming areas of this relatively short beach.

Once on shore, they viewed the menu of each restaurant with son expressing surprise at the high prices for each. Dad responded:  "Location, location, location." Dad noted that the only way to this location was walking 187 steps down and then back up to the street ... or ... walking the seashore for a mile ... or ... taking a boat to the cove from Cap d'Ail.

Dad first made the lunch reservations at Eden, and then the two went to La Reserves to rent two padded sun loungers for the day They would spend the day there with the exception for lunch. Several times in the morning, Son would swim the 200 yds to La Vie to be with Jazz. The two would then swim around the boat at first and then onto a cave-like entrance. There seemed to be no limit to Jazz's energy. When the sun was directly overhead, Son led Jazz back to the boat for Jazz to use the diving platform on the transom to reboard La Vie. Son then swam to shore to have lunch. As he came onto the beach, he could not help but notice 
the young lady bathing on the beach in front of La Reserve. As he passed her she looked up, and he fumbled a 'Bonjour'. She smiled, and he continued up the beach to Eden. He found Dad already seated there with a 1/2 pichet of rose. "Son, I would say with your significant swimming activity this morning that you may want to consider several of the protein-based servings." "Yes, I agree. Do you have any recommendations for lunch?" "Yes, I suggest the Tagliata de Boeuf. It looks excellent, and I will be ordering that." "Make that 2." As Son was pouring his rose and adding several glacons, he noted the same young lady walking up from the beach. She was topless in her monokini, and was just wrapping her chest with a chiffon shawl as she approached the table level. Dad noticed Son's distraction. Smiling he said, "Yes Son, the beaches on the Rivera are with a topless option. You will see some of that as we progress along the coast. However, women going topless are on the decrease it seems. Actually, our final destination of Cap d'Agde is said to have the largest number of nudist beaches in the world."

The young lady took the table next to them and was soon joined by another young women equally attractive. Son was now really distracted. The two Mademoiselles were classic French with their tanned slender bodies, designer hair, and charming movements. After several mimutes, the first mademoiselle turned and said to Son, "S'il vous plaît, Monsieur, avez-vous un briquet ?" Son then responded, "Parles-tu Anglais?" She quickly responded "Oui ...ahhh Yes. I was asking if you had a lighter." Hesitantly, Son responded. "No, I am 'trés' sorry Madame." She smiled at his cute attempt to include some French. "Merci beaucoup Monsieur". As she was turning back towards her friend, she suddenly glanced back, "Perhaps we will meet again, Monsieur". She turned back to sit at her table. Son's blushing was evident to Dad. 

Smiling, Dad started, "Well my son, you seem to be adapting well to the 'culture' here." Son smartly replied, "I guess I'll start carrying a lighter here in France." They both laughed. When the waiter arrived, Dad ordered two servings ofTagliata de Boeuf. Waiting for the food, they discussed the sailing tomorrow to Villefrance sur Mer. Dad knew the village well in that it had been a major part of his honeymoon. Dad explained that they would sail out into the sea far enough to make a single tack around Cap Ferret, and then directly into the port. As a side point, he noted that Sir Elton John own a significant portion of that peninsula. Also that Tina Turner resided in a villa overlooking the harbor. He joked that neither artist had extended a dinner invitation to them. The food arrived, and it was spectacular in its presentation. The pieces of baquette were an excellent addition. They were provided with a shallow bowl of olive oil and grated Parmesan cheese. Butter was not offered as is typical in French dining.

Finished with the food and wine, Dad paid la addition. They then proceeded to return to their sun lounges at La Reserve. Upon standing from the table, Son felt emboldened to say "Enchantée Madams" to the two Mademoiselles. His first encounter smiled with a wink and said "Au revoir Monsieur. But first, may I borrow your cell phone for a moment?" Son was surprised, but handed her his cell phone. She proceeds to enter some numbers, and then her cell phone on the table rang. It then stopped ringing as she closed the call on his phone and handed it back to him. "Monsieur, you now have my number, and I yours." She looked directly into his eyes and said, "We are now able to contact each other if so desired." Knowing that he did not speak French, she continued, "Tu es très beau et j'aimerais te connaître davantage." Son simply responded with "Oui" without a clue what she had said. Dad had some understanding and smiled at the Mademoiselles. "Son, I will tell you later what she said."  Son said "Au revoir, Mademoiselles." as they headed for La Reserve 

 Once back to their sun loungers at La Reserve, Dad said, "Son, she said something about you being beautiful and that she wishes to see you again. So young man, do with that what you will. You DO HAVE 4 weeks at Institute de Francaise starting in 2 days that will require your total dedication.  But, we have a serious mission on this trip to set you up for Stanford." Son paused. "No Dad, I am indeed enchanted by this brief encounter with a French beauty, but my mind is on the future. But, I must say that she was so charming and physically attractive that it is difficult not to pursue." "Son, in France you will be presented with so many such women. I can assure you." With that, Dad ordered a 1/2 pichet of rose for the afternoon. The rest of the afternoon was spent sun bathing with Son again swimming out twice to be with Jazz for a swim together. On the second swim, before returning to shore, Son provided Jazz with fresh water and a cup of dog food since he and Dad would not be back until 8 at the earliest.

At 5 Dad asked the constant attendant to make a reservation for 2 in the dining area at 5:30. The two of them took a short swim just off shore to cool off. And then they went to the fresh water shower to rid themselves of the salt water. Subsequently, they changed into shorts and light shirts to have dinner. Once seated with menus, Dad noted the specialty in which he was most interested. This was an entree that he  and Wife once had at a restaurant on the Bosphoros Strait in Istanbul, but never in France: the iconic Mediterranean Salt Crusted Sea Bass. This entree for two is prepared by baking an entire sea bass totally encapsulated in salt. The waiter then does the preparation of separating the meat from bones. Again, a cuisine lesson for Son.

 

Taking the complimentary shuttle back to La Vie at 8,  both Dad and Son took quick showers to remove the salt water residue. Dad then pulled out a bottle of Port for them to enjoy the extraordinary brilliant sunset on the aft deck. The anchoring was such that the stern of the boat faced the West with a view of the coast and hills ahead of them for their next day of sailing. With the mooring lights turned on, they went below decks at 10 to sleep with Jazz remaining on the aft deck, as he would throughout the voyage.

In the morning, Jazz again awakened Dad at 7 with his version of la Biss, but only on one cheek. Son was wakened likewise by Jazz. Before cooking a light breakfast, all 3 were soon in the water enjoying the refreshing coolness of the water. Following with a quick fresh water shower on board, Son prepared a breakfast of sausages and scramble eggs. Finished with this petite-déjeuner, it only took 30 minutes to be underway on the next leg to Villefrance sur Mer.

This story will continue with the next episode being that of the arrival
of Dad and Son in Villefrance sur Mer.
 
 

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