The TOQUES of the Town

I decided that Chad and I would take the earlier Delta flight-combo, via JFK, that left New Orleans at 11:14 AM and arrived the next day in Nice at 8:15 A.M. The alternative flight-combo via Atlanta arrived later at Noon. I had purchased First Class tickets, which provided seats that could be transitioned to flat beds on the flight across the Atlantic. With both dinner and breakfast service, we were well rested and fed during the 8 hour flight. I reserved window seats on the right side to view the crossing of France and especially the landing in Nice with its spectacular coastline. Also, I knew that on the odd-number flight from JFK, that the best seats were towards the front of First Class thereby providing the first choices of the various meals offered. (On the returned flight of NCE to JFK, which was a even-number flight, I chose seats at the rear of First Class in order to have the first choices of meals.). Since this was Chad's first international flight, I warned him of not consuming too much of the endless pour of wine and Champagne that was available. I also suggested that he tell the Flight Attendant not to wake him for breakfast if he was asleep. We would eat our lunch in Monaco. 

 

Once in the Nice airport, I made arrangements to have most of the substantial luggage to be delivered to the boat-charter service in Monaco. We then caught a SNCF train that was another 50 minutes in arriving in Monaco. I chose the train versus the metro/ bus combo that would take an extra hour at least, although very scenic along the coast. However, the train route along the coast did provide glances of two of the ports we will be visiting on the boat: Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cap-d'Ail. The extra time by taking the JFK connection permitted us some exploration in Monaco before boarding the boat. The next sailing leg would be Cap-d'Ail arriving in the early afternoon, that is depending upon the weather. With his numerous trips to Cote Azure in the summer, he had rarely experienced weather in which he could not sail safely.

 

Arriving at the Monaco station, we made the long walk underground to the outside. Upon exiting the station's entrance, the grand Port Hercules of Monaco presented itself with its wealth of powered and sailing yachts. However, our boat was not in this harbor but rather in Port Fontvieille just around the mountain to the West. This smaller, but very charming, port was for the charter services and those individuals waiting for their opportunity to dock in the prestigious Port Hercules at a rate no less than €1,500 per day. 

 

Before proceeding to the boat, I decided to have lunch first since neither of us had the breakfast service on the Delta flight. I noted that Café de Paris, Monte Carlo had a formidable sitting area adjacent to the marina and we took a table there. As would be common for much of the trip, I ordered a pichet rosé avec beaucoup glacons as well as a carafe de eau. Knowing a few French words, Chad said, "Really Dad? They serve rosé here with ice cubes. How un-French is that?" "Not at all Son. Along the Mediterranean, rosé is most often served with ice cubes on the side given the heat. I did asked for 'much' ice cubes. My French is a bit limited also, but the waiter understood." With a smile I continued, "You now have had your first true French culinary lesson." The waiter returned with the 'pichet' (i liter) of rosé, carafe of water, four glasses, and a bowl of ice with a spoon. He handed each of us a menu and stated he would return at my request via a hand signal. I continued, "After Lunch, I will contact the charter service and they will provide a water shuttle to our boat in the other harbor. As to lunch, I really enjoy just a baguette stuffed with brie and the pâté de maison. I have never enjoyed a large déjeuner in France." Chad then said, "Actually Dad, I am a bit starved. Soooooooo, having looked at the menu I will have the Omelette de la mère Poulard and a petite nicoise salad." "Son, you will soon experience your next two additional French culinary arts, I refer first to a classic French omelet and second the nicoise salad that it is so called due to its origin in Nice. While Chad filled the glasses 2/3 full before the addition of several ice cubes each, I pulled out the map of Port Fontvieille noting the position of the Chartering Service's office. I then called the Service stating that they were in Monaco and would call them after lunch. The individual asked where we were at that point. When I responded, the individual said they would send a shuttle boat to pick us up at 4:30. He also mentioned that their luggage had been delivered and was on the boat, as well as some basic supplies that I had requested a week ago. The plan was to do most of the initial shopping in Cap-d'Ail given the significantly lower costs.

 

We were finished with lunch and wine by 3 PM. With more than an hour until being picked up, I ordered 2 tango panachés, a traditional Monaco drink made from equal parts of grenadine syrup, lemon soda, and beer. With the drinks delivered, I turned to Chad, "Cheers to us for this extraordinary trip my Son." "Cheers Dad" as we clicked our glasses. While waiting for the shuttle, I went into some brief discussion regarding each of the ports we would be visiting. Chad then asked several questions about the two excursions he was to experience. At 4:30 sharp, the outboard from the Charter service arrived. I paid la addition. Noting that the menu's prices were service compris, I left a €5 tip nonetheless as was my practice when in France

 

The shuttle was a fast 25ft, open cockpit craft with (2) 200Hp outboards. It was less than 15 minutes when we left Port Hercules, rounded the mountain, and then entered Port Fontvieille. The entrance to the port was spectacular. What this port lacked in size, it made up in its charm and beauty. Upon arrival at the dock for the Charter Service, I immediately spotted our boat for the next 4 months. Before buying the Caliber in the U.S., I had chartered a 40ft Hunter several times and had specifically chosen this U.S.-built vessel over the inferior, French-built, 40ft Beneteau offered by the Charter Service. With the necessary papers signed, we were on-board 'La Vie'. in 5 minutes. Upon entering the below deck cabin, there was a bottle of Veuve Clicqout Champagne and 2 flutes.  I was surprised and said to Chad, "How did they know my favorite Champagne?" The rest of that evening was spent stowing our gear on-board and enjoying the Champagne on the open deck in the back. Even though we were well rested given Delta's flat beds across the Atlantic, I knew that morning would come 7 hours earlier than for which our internal clocks were geared. At 10 PM, we headed for our respective births. I took the V-berth at the bow, and Chad settled in the aft-birth under the helm.

We both awakened at 8. Once Chad was dressed, I asked him to go to a patisserie nearby to find croissants and croque monseuirs, if possible. Meanwhile, I took an inventory of the critical rigging, including the sheets for the main and jib.  There was no spinnaker or spinnaker pole in the fo'c'sle, which was disappointing to me. Also, the boom vang was not rigged. I mumbled outloud, "Clearly, these guys don't appreciate 'running before the wind".  However, there was enough line and pulleys to rig my own vang. Chad returned with 2 croque-monsieurs and 2 café cremes. 

 

After enjoying our petite déjeuner on the aft deck, we made a final check of the required items for their sailing, With the exceptions noted by me earlier, we were set to depart the dock. Suddenly, I heard the individual that we met the previous night yelling to us from the charter office. "S'il vous plaît, attendez messieurs" I noticed he had a gorgeous English-Cream Golden Retriever by his side as they ran towards our boat. The dog was not on a leash and arrived at the boat first. He immediately jumped from the dock to the aft deck and sat behind the steering wheel on the padded bench. We were puzzled by what was happening. When the individual arrived, he caught his breath and stated, "Messieurs, this dog, 'Jazz' was the property of the previous owner of this boat who was a musician from New Orleans in the U.S. Monsieur died 3 weeks ago, and we purchased this boat from his daughter in the U.S. Jazz came with the boat, and we have been caring for him since then. As you can see, Jazz desires to be on the boat. Would you messieurs consider taking him onboard for your trip and leaving him in Cap d'agde when you drop off the boat in 4 months?" He paused, "Our personnel in Cap d'agde understand the situation, and they are willing to accept the dog." I looked at Chad, "What do you think?" Jazz was now licking Chad's left arm. He replied. "Uhhhhh, I'm game Dad." I then turned to the individual, "Bring us whatever dog food you have, and we will take Jazz on." "Merci beaucoup, I will be back shortly with 2 bags of dog food and 2 dishes to serve him his food and water. Also, Jazz loves the water, and he is able to get back onto the boat with the platform at the stern. He does understand basic commends in English and French."

 

Once we received the dog food and dishes, I started the engine as Chad released the lines from the dock. Within minutes, we were out of the dock and motoring out of the port. Jazz went to the foredeck to enjoy the wind. Approaching the open water, I killed the engine, and Chad then first raised the main, and then the jib. Both sails quickly filled as Dad turned the vessel towards the wind for a starboard tact and eliminating any luffing. We were now underway on our voyage. From my experience with Hunters in the past, I could feel the vessel responding handsomely.  Entering the Med., I turned to Chad and said, "La Vie is yar!" Son knew the Katherine Hepburn reference. We both raised our arms into the air in celebration of this forthcoming 4-month adventure. Jazz barked twice from the bow.

 

Cap-d'Ail

For the sailing leg to the next port-of-call, Cap d'Ail, it would take less than 2 hours. However, once in open water, I decided to put La Vie through some simple maneuvers to refresh both of our's agility in dealing with the sheets in tacking as well as jibing. This was not Lake Pontchartrain, and during the trip we would most likely be confronted with conditions more extreme than back in NOLA. I also wanted to observe Jazz's dealing with all of our activity in handling the sails. Fortunately, it would be quickly demonstrated that Jazz was unaffected by the activity and simply laid at the bow facing and enjoying the wind. Based upon the wagging of his tail, Jazz particularly enjoyed the occasional spray from a wave as La Vie plowed through it.

Using the boat's VHF radio, I called the Port Master in Cap d'Ail to inform him of our arrival in several hours and to get info as to where the boat should dock. We could anchor in the harbor, but I decided that there were too many supplies to obtain to deal with a shuttle. Additionally,I didn't yet know of Jazz's routine on the boat weather anchored in the harbor or being in a slip. We would soon come to understand that Jazz could take care of his needs in either case; Jazz was 'boat broken'. 

As we approached the entrance to the port, Chad lowered and secured the sails, and I started the engine to motor in. The marina was modest in size, and I was able to find our designated slip easily. Arguably, this French city was best known for its beach, Plage Mala, with its unique beauty and obscurity. Therefore, I had decided to spend an additional day in this port to take advantage of this treasure. But first, we would spend the rest of this day in obtaining the necessary supplies for a significant portion of the trip. I decided to only provide supplies for breakfast and cocktails in the evening on the boat. Lunch and Dinner would be enjoyed on shore. Of course, I justified this decision as part of the exposure for Chad in pursuing his French culinary skills.

For dinner that evening, I made a reservation at Primo Amore by Pappagallo, which had a perfect 5.0 score as to all 4 measurements based on 236 reviews: food, service, value, and atmosphere. This score was additionally impressive in that it was for Italian cuisine in a French city. In his extensive domestic and international travels, I had never seen a perfect score.

Indeed, the food and service were excellent. But what really caught my attention was the appetizer, focaccia perdue caramel poisson-beurre. This was stale focaccia (perdue = lost) in which butterfish had been incorporated. It was then dipped in an egg mixture and browned in butter in a sauce pan (think an extraordinary French Toast), This was another cuisine tip for Chad.

The following morning, I was awakened at 7 by a soft, wet touch on my left cheek.  Jazz had come down to the V-berth and sat patiently on the bedding after licking my face. With a slight moan, I sat up and embraced him, "Really Jazz?" As I stood up, Jazz went back into the galley and sat by his empty bowls,  I put on my bathing suit and then filled one bowl with water and the other with 1 cup of dry dog food. As Jazz 'inhaled' the food, I went up on deck for a quick swim in the marina.  Diving from the transom, I was soon followed by Jazz jumping in after me. Upon coming back onboard after several minutes, Jazz continued to swim around near the stern and occasionally diving down for a moment, as if pursuing fish, and then resurfacing. This dog was a natural for being around and in the water. As I dressed, Jazz was soon by my side below deck. I then proceeded to grill some sage sausages, including one for Jazz, which had been purchased the day before. The scent and the sizzling of the sausages cooking awakened Chad. Along with the 2 croque monsieurs that we had also purchased on shore, we enjoyed their first meal onboard.  Jazz was served his sausage in his bowl so as to not encourage begging during meals. Within an hour, we had finished stowing the supplies from the day before and were prepared to leave the marina.

Given the short distance to Plage Mala, I decided to motor there and anchor in its prestigious cove over night. As we turned from the sea towards the cove,  two restaurants with their private beachfronts came into sight. Most impressive was the perfectly clear water that varied from light bluish-green near shore to dark blue further out due to the vegetation and depth of the water. Sara and I had been to the restaurant Eden, with its red motif, on our honeymoon. Have just started my Consultancy at that point, meant that money was a bit tight and Eden was significantly less expensive than the other restaurant, La Reserves, with the white motif. This time, Chad and I would enjoy both: Eden for lunch and La Reserves for dinner thereby requiring anchoring in the cove overnight.

Unlike when sailing in Lake Pontchartrain, I decided to use tandem anchoring for a more secure mooring. This meant that there was an anchor placed at both the bow and the stern of La Vie. Once the boat was secured as to sails and the cabin, Chad called for the boat-taxi to take us to shore. Jazz stayed on the deck since dogs are not permitted in the swimming areas of this relatively short beach.

Once on shore, we first viewed the menu of each restaurant with Chad expressing surprise at the high prices for each. I responded:  "Location, location, location." I also noted that the only way to this location was walking 187 steps down and then back up to the street ... or ... walking the seashore for a mile ... or ... taking a boat to the cove from Cap d'Ail.

I first made the lunch reservations at Eden, and then we went to La Reserves to rent two padded sun loungers for the day The intent was to spend the day there with the exception for lunch. Several times in the morning, Chad would swim the 200 yds to La Vie to be with Jazz. The two would then swim around the boat at first and then onto a cave-like entrance. There seemed to be no limit to Jazz's energy. When the sun was directly overhead, Chad led Jazz back to the boat for Jazz to reboard. Chad then swam to shore to have lunch. As he came onto the beach, he could not help but notice the young lady bathing on the beach in front of La Reserve. As he passed her she looked up, and he fumbled a 'Bonjour'. She smiled, and he continued up the beach to Eden. He found me already seated there with a 1/2 pichet of rosé. "Chad, I      would say with your significant swimming activity this morning that you may want to consider several of the protein-based servings." "Yes, I agree. Do you have any recommendations for lunch?" "Yes, I suggest the Tagliata de Boeuf. It looks excellent, and I will be ordering that." "Make that 2." As Chad was pouring his rosé and adding several glacons, he noted the same young lady walking up from the beach. She was topless in her monokini, and was just wrapping her chest with a chiffon shawl as she approached the table level. I clearly noticed Son's distraction. Smiling I said, "Yes Chad, the beaches on the Rivera are with a topless option. You will see some of that as we progress along the coast. However, women going topless are on the decrease it seems. Actually, our final destination of Cap d'Agde is said to have the largest number of nudist beaches in the world."

The young lady took the table next to us and was soon joined by another young women equally attractive. Chad was now really distracted. The two Mademoiselles were classic French with their tanned, slender bodies, designer hair, and charming movements. After several minutes, the first mademoiselle turned and said to him, "S'il vous plaît, Monsieur, avez-vous un briquet ?" He then responded, "Parles-tu Anglais?" She quickly responded "Oui ...ahhh Yes. I was asking if you had a lighter." Hesitantly, Son responded. "No, I am 'trés' sorry Madame." She smiled at his cute attempt to include some French. "Merci beaucoup Monsieur". As she was turning back towards her friend, she suddenly glanced back, "Perhaps we will meet again, Monsieur". She turned back to sit at her table. Son's blushing was evident to Dad. 

Smiling, I commented, "Well Chad, you seem to be adapting well to the 'culture' here." He smartly replied, "I guess I'll start carrying a lighter here in France." We both laughed. When the waiter arrived, I ordered two servings of Tagliata de Boeuf. While waiting for the food, we discussed the sailing tomorrow to Villefrance sur Mer. I knew the village in that it had been a major part of my honeymoon. I explained that we would sail out into the sea far enough to make a single tack around Cap Ferret, and then directly into the port. As a side point, I noted that Sir Elton John own a significant portion of that peninsula. Also that Tina Turner resided in a villa overlooking the harbor. I stupidly joked that neither artist had extended a dinner invitation to us. The food arrived, and it was spectacular in its presentation. The pieces of baquette were an excellent addition. They were provided with a shallow bowl of olive oil and grated Parmesan cheese. Butter was not offered as is typical in French dining.

Finished with the food and wine, I paid la addition. We then proceeded to return to their sun lounges at La Reserve. Upon standing from the table, Chad felt emboldened to say "Enchantée Madams" to the two Mademoiselles. His first encounter smiled with a wink and said "Au revoir Monsieur. But first, may I borrow your cell phone for a moment?" He was surprised, but handed her his cell phone. She proceeded to enter some numbers, and then her cell phone on the table rang. It then stopped ringing as she closed the call on his phone and handed it back to him. "Monsieur, you now have my number, and I yours." She looked directly into his eyes and said, "We are now able to contact each other if so desired." Knowing that he did not speak French, she continued, "Tu es très beau et j'aimerais te connaître davantage." Son simply responded with "Oui" without a clue what she had said. I had some understanding and smiled at the Mademoiselles. "Chad, I will tell you later what she said."  He said "Au revoir, Mademoiselles." as they headed for La Reserve.  

 Once back to their sun loungers at La Reserve, I said, "Chad, she said something about you being beautiful and that she wishes to see you again. So young man, do with that what you will. You DO HAVE 4 weeks at Institute de Francaise starting in 2 days that will require your dedication to maximize its value for you entering Stanford." He paused. "I am indeed enchanted by this brief encounter with a French beauty, but my mind is on the future. But, I must say that she was so charming and physically attractive that it is difficult not to pursue." "In France you will be presented with so many such women. I can assure you." With that, Dad ordered a 1/2 pichet of rosé. The rest of the afternoon was spent sun bathing with Chad again swimming out twice to be with Jazz for a swim together. On the second swim, before returning to shore, he provided Jazz with fresh water and a cup of dog food since we would not be back until 8 at the earliest.

At 5 I asked the constant attendant to make a reservation for 2 in the dining area at 5:30. We then took a short swim just off shore to cool off. And then we went to the fresh water shower to rid themselves of the salt water. Subsequently, we changed into shorts and light shirts to have dinner. Once seated with menus, I noted the specialty in which I was most interested. This was an entree Sara and I once had at a restaurant on the Bosphorus Strait in Istanbul, but never in France: the iconic Mediterranean Salt Crusted Sea Bass. This entree for two is prepared by baking an entire sea bass totally encapsulated in salt. The waiter then does the preparation of separating the meat from bones. Again, a cuisine lesson for Chad.

Taking the complimentary shuttle back to La Vie at 8,  Chad remained on the aft deck as I went below to get a bottle of Port.  We then spent the next hour or so speculating about some future events during this trip while observing the extraordinary brilliant sunset. The anchoring was such that the stern of the boat faced the West with a view of the coast and hills ahead of us for our next day of sailing. With the mooring lights turned on, we went below decks at 10 to sleep with Jazz remaining on the aft deck, as he would throughout the voyage.

In the morning, Jazz again awakened me at 7 with his version of la Biss of only one cheek. Chad was likewise wakened by Jazz. Before cooking a light breakfast, all 3 were soon in the water enjoying its refreshing coolness. Following with a quick fresh water shower on board, Chad prepared a breakfast of sausages and French-style scrambled eggs. Finished with this petite-déjeuner, it only took 30 minutes to be underway on the next leg to Villefrance sur Mer. 

For all ports of call in this story, save Villefranche sur Mer, there is only one episode. However, for this next port, the 4 week duration as well as two separate agendas of wife/me and my son warrants multiple parts.

VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER: Part 1 of 4

For departing from Plague Mala, both the main and jib were set. On a port tack, we were far enough into open water in several minutes to permit us to look North beyond the coastal hills of Côte d'Azur. Chad was alarmed by the massive dark clouds inland and the possible threat to their sailing. He had never really been tested as to rough seas and damning weather. However, I have spent enough time along this coast on my honeymoon and 3 subsequent trips to understand the peculiarities of this weather pattern. In my experience I have rarely seen threatening weather inland to actually reach the coast, yet alone over the sea. I assured Chad that with the current wind, they would be entering the harbor of Villefranche-sur-Mer within an hour. The route required sailing out far enough into the sea to take a starboard tack to pass the peninsula of Cap Ferret, and then 'run before the wind' to enter the harbor. Once in, it was only 15 minutes to drop the sails and motor to their slip for the next 4 weeks. I had already made arrangements for one of the few slips in front of Hôtel Welcome to dock La Vie for that time. With Chad attending the Institute de Francaise for that period, and Sara arriving during his schooling, the slip would be most convenient. If we had moored in the harbor, then  we would be depended upon the irregularity of a water taxi that had limited hours.

Once La Vie was secured, both we were ready for déjeuner. I knew of a deli along the beachfront that served Pan Bagnat, a local specialty. This sandwich is to Nice and this village what the muffuletta is to the French Quarter in NOLA. With Jazz following us, we took the cobblestone promenade towards the beach. Jazz walked along the edge constantly looking into the shallow, crystal clear water. Suddenly he jumped and down into the water emerging shortly thereafter with a sizable fish in his mouth. Jazz then used the large rocks along the edge to come back onto the promenade. He then sat in front of me and dropped the fish at my feet. The fish did not appear to be damaged. (This is possible given that Golden Retrievers have 'gentle mouths' with enough spacing between their front and back teeth to carry game without harm.) Ww were in in total awe of this dog. Without Jazz watching, I threw the fish back into the water. With our sandwiches purchased, as well a pink 'franske' hot dog (w/o bun) for Jazz, we returned to La Vie to enjoy our lunch and Jazz his snack. 

We spent the afternoon visiting the various shop along the primary alleys of the village. There were some basic items Chad required for his 4-week stay at the Institute. Jazz was with us, but he would sit outside a shop while we were inside. While walking through the village, we came across several American Golden Retrievers with their owners. These encounters only required a quick sniff by the dogs of the other's hindquarters, and then back to their owners. It seemed to me that even the dogs in the village, like their owners, are quite la te da. By 5, Chad had the supplies he needed, and we headed to Les Palmiers at the square for a full pichet of rosé that is always served with a bowl of glacons.

Once seated at a table on the edge of the square, I ordered the rosé and a carafe d'eau. "Chad, tomorrow with Mom arriving, the 3 of us will eat dinner at my favorite restaurant in this village. La Belle Étoile is on an alley further up the hill which we have not yet visited. The Owner/Chef is Manuel. He is one from whom you can learn a great deal about French cuisine as well as business practices. But, I will save further comments on those points until we are there. I have an idea for your benefit that I will pursue at that time."  "What are you up to now Dad?" "You'll see." 

This was the perfect opportunity to discuss each' other's perspective of how a restaurant should be evaluated on a score of 1-4 toques. I started with my perspective having traveled extensively both domestically and internationally. "I have often considered 3 criteria in addition to the obvious four of atmosphere, price, quality, and service to evaluate a restaurant." I paused when the rosé was delivered. "First, I consider the price-point of the offered wines based upon their quality and uniqueness. Next, I evaluate the quality of the bread that is served. The bread is a subtle indication of the restaurant's quality, granted, but the finer restaurants take the extra step to serve excellent pain. Lastly, if served, I evaluate the quality of the sauces."  I paused gain while we each had more rosé, and then I continued. "These 3 criteria are very applicable in NOLA where well-priced wine, with excellent bread dipped in extraordinary sauces can the difference between a good meal and a great meal." Chad laughed, "Really?" "Yes!, really Chad. As you are familiar with our meals at home or at a restaurant in NOLA, we share our sauces with all that wish to dip their bread." Chad repeated "Really?" I emphasized, "Yes! You well know that a meal with family and friends is a treasured act of sharing. I have found this practice to be unique to NOLA's culture. So!,  As you create your list of the criteria for your 'Torque' evaluation, I suggest you keep this point of sharing food in mind.  This concept can differentiate you from the Michelin Star evaluation that is meant only for haute cuisine. I believe it could be critical attribute in achieving your success." Chad filled his wine glass and sat back in his chair. "Dad, I think you have made a critical point for me to consider to make Toques standout, especially in the South." "Chad, it is my belief that this will also catch on across the U.S." Having finished the rosé and la addition paid, we headed back to the La Vie.  Jazz anticipating their destination, ran ahead, jumped in the water and reappeared on the stern of the boat that faced the harbor.

Once back on La Vie, I checked the status of Sara's flight. With the 7-hours time difference, her first flight of DFW to JFK would be in the process of boarding. In that Delta had been a client of my second consultancy, I had access to Delta 'employees-only' flight status portal. Hence, I could see that she was already seated in 4a. I turned to Chad as we were dressing to go out for dinner "Mom is on her way.  She should arrive in Nice tomorrow about Noon and then here by 2." "Great! She is going to love La Vie." "I also think she is going to absolutely love Jazz." "Speaking of 'Jazz', so to speak, tonight we are going to a very charming jazz club at the marina. It is called La Trinquette, which is French for 'staysail'" Hearing his name, Jazz went to his dishes and sat waiting to be fed. 

With Jazz fed, we all left La Vie and walked along the sea wall that bordered the fort on the edge of the village. Within 10 minutes. we were at the entrance to the Darse Marina and in front of La Trinquette, Having been there several times before, I had reserved one of the 2 tables that was outside that permitted Jazz to be with us. The main room of the restaurant was quite tight, especially with the band set up, and Jazz would have been interference to the servers. The €15 fare of the club's menu was homestyle, not pretentious, but excellent for that venue. The music that night was a 'casual innovative' jazz unlike our more complex collective forms of jazz in NOLA. But it was perfect with the simple fare. Unlike our dining at the New Orleans Yacht club, I ordered a French beer during the evening in lieu of wine. Son took note of this evening in line with his thoughts of the sharing of food that he and I had discussed that afternoon. At 10:30 la addition was paid, and we walked back to La Vie by means of the sea wall again.  The lights from the opposite shore of Cap Ferret reflecting on the water provided a most serene setting for the short walk.

Once back to the slip of La Vie, I suggested that we first have a nightcap of green Chartreuse at the wine bar of Hotel Welcome, as Jazz explored the promenade along the water.   

It was a late night for of us. As ususal, Jazz stayed on the aft deck to sleep as we went below to our berths.

NOTE: Villefranche sur Mer is one of my favorite designations in the world. If you wish to know more about this villeage, you can read my 2 postings in the TRAVEL category on this blog: Villefranche sur Mer: Within and Villefranche sur Mer: Without.

 

VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER: Part 2 of 4

Again at 7 in the morning, Jazz did his wakeup la biss for borh Chad an me. I was into my bathing suit in minutes and immediately started towards the same spot as yesterday for my morning swim. Jazz had anticipated my action and was sitting on the promenade in front of La Vie waiting for mw. We did the same swim as yesterday and were back to the boat in 30 minutes. Again, Chad had prepared breakfast. This morning it was a sunny side up egg stuffed in a croissant, sage sausage links,  and coffee for each. Jazz's bowl was filled with dry dog food topped with pieces of sausage. As I was being served, Chad noted the bold orange color of the yolks compared to the medium yellow yokes that are common in NOLA. I stated that such eggs are common throughout France. But in the U.S., such eggs are the normal in the Amish communities, particularly where the hens' feed has yellow-orange pigments instead of corn or alfalfa meal; another cuisine note for Chad.

With breakfast complete, the we enjoyed additional coffee on the aft deck. At that point, I checked again on the Delta sight and could see that Sara's flight into NCE was on time. Additionally, she was seated at 4F. I had specifically reserved that side of plane so that it would give her an excellent view of Villefranche sur Mer as the plane would normally go around Nice and come in from the East. I turned to Chad,  "Mom should be in the village by 2 this afternoon. It is an relatively easy transfer from the airport to here by taking the metro to the Nice marina, and then the #607 bus to the main road above in the village. Jazz and I will go up there to meet her and bring her down to La Vie.  During that time, I suggest you have lunch on the square at one of the several bistros there." "Sounds good, Dad." "We are fortunate that the exchange rate between the $ and the € is nearly one-to-one. That was not the case just 3 years ago when the $ suffered by nearly 30% compared to the €." Finished with our coffee, Chad went below to clean up from breakfast. With Jazz following, I went into the village to buy a bouquet to present to Sara upon her arrival at the boat. I always arranged to have flowers in the destination room during their many trips, as well as for anniversaries and her birthdays. Which reminds, me I later found out that the Vevue Cliqcout Champagne that was on La Vie when we boarded in Monaco was from Sara. Such a Dear

Having brought the bouquet back to the boat,  Jazz and I then started up the hill to the bus stop to meet Sara, not knowing which bus she would actually catch. There was also Sara's favorite patisserie near the bus stop that had an excellent assortment of her favorite delicacies not available elsewhere in the village. She particularly enjoyed la religieuse (the nun) that is a stack of 2 cream puffs filled with a coffee-flavored custard topped with chocolate ganache. I was always amused in the past when Sara would bite off the top and then sloppily work her way through the bottom portion. This was one of the many memories that endeared her to me, the otherwise most-gracious woman that she is.  

Having been to the village before, Sara knew the appropriate bus stop of 2 in the village. She only had her carryon bag in that I had arranged for her luggage at the airport to be delivered to the boat. Having slept on the flat beds on Delta in first class from JFK to NCE, she was well rested. As she stepped off the bus, she dropped her carryon and placed her arms around me holding me so tightly letting out a deep breath. "I am here with you and Chad. My favorite place in the world for now the three of us." After an engaging kiss, she let loose of me and said, "Who is this gorgeous creature?", as she stooped to give Jazz a full body hug. "Love, this is Jazz who is now a full member of our crew. He will be with me during the full cruise .... and perhaps beyond" She responded with a doubtful "Hmmmmm."  As I took charge of her carryon, I presented her with the patisseries with a broad smile. "The boat, La Vie, awaits you Darling." We then headed down the hill to the harbor holding hands. Jazz led the way, but frequently looking back for assurance that I was still behind him.

When we reached the square which was high enough above the promenade to view that boats tied up there. I stopped and turned to Sara. "So Love, of the boats before you, on which one would you like to spend the next 4 weeks?" She paused and then laughed saying, " I like that beauty that Jazz dove into the water next to it, and is now on the foredeck." I smiled, "You are going to greatly enjoy the presence of Jazz during this trip. That is his passed owner's boat, and he is quite amazing. Well, except for his sloppy kiss on the cheek to wake you up at 7 or so." She smiled, "I think I can get use to that. That is, along with your attention, my Love." she said with a wink.

Once on board, Sara went below to shed her travel clothes and take a refreshing shower. Within 15 minutes she emerged in shorts, a loose cotton top, and espadrilles to join me on the aft deck. I was well prepared for her with the bouquet I had purchased along with a chilled bottle of sparkling rosé from Provence. I stood and took her hand to sit on the port bench. "That's the look that I have missed on this trip", Dad said as I patted her left behind. "I love the bouquet. You never fail me." "My pleasure. So first the sparkling rosé, and then I will provide you the latest on Toque." I filled 2 flutes, and twe toasted her arrival. I continued, "Chad should be here in an hour or so. He left a note that he had gone to the beach for several hours." This was his last 'free' day until he entered the Institute de Francaise the next day, I then continued by explaining the discussion with Chad regarding how to differentiate Toque from the Michelin Star. Sara didn't hesitate in voicing her approval for the 'sharing /comfort' consideration other than the haute cuisine scope of Michelin. Again,  we raised our flutes and toasted to 'Son and Toque'. WE had almost finished the sparkling rosé when we noticed Jazz leaping from the bow to the promenade to greet Chad approaching. I placed my arm around Sara and said, "I would like to bring Jazz to the States." Without hesitation, She responded, "I would love that. My firm can handle the legal process. I will address that once I am back in NOLA." With the sparkling rose' remaining, we toasted to, 'Jazz in the U.S.' 

Chad was still wet from the fresh water shower at the beach as he came aboard. Sara gave him a huge hug as Jazz stood by their side looking up at the two with his tail wagging. I then spoke. "Just how was the water Chad?" "Freaking cold."  I continued, "We are here early in the season. But over the next 4 weeks in your free time, you will adapt. You missed the sparking rosé, but at dinner I will make up for that." Chad went below to dress. "Love, we are having dinner tonight at our favorite restaurant from visits past." She quickly responded. "You mean of course la Belle Étoile?" "Of course." 

Her luggage was delivered at that point, and she went below to stow her clothes in the closet attached to the V-birth. I then called Jazz, and we took a walk towards the fort for Jazz's relief. It was apparent to me that Jazz had been in this village before as the dog headed up the hill to the park overlooking the square. Upon returning to La Vie after a long walk, Sara and Chad were sitting on the aft deck enjoying a glass of Port. I went below to change into casual clothes and subsequently joined the two for a glass of Port as Jazz finished his meal that Chad hd set out for him. It was an hour before our reservation at La Belle Étoile, and we spent that time discussing Toque. Most importantly, Sara expressed her support of what I had told her earlier. Surprisingly to the Sara and I, Chad expressed some concern of this concept of a Toque rating approach that, as he stated, "was more casual. quite proletariat than that of Michelin's rating for haute cuisine." I immediately spoke up, "That is the point. You clearly cannot, and do not want to, compete with Michelin for several reasons. They have a very limited presence in the U.S. They cannot afford to compete with your market of the masses in the U.S. that identify with American, home-style cooking versus that of French haute cuisine. With Toque you can provide true value for improving the restaurant experiences in the U.S. for the middle class. They deserve such attention and guidance in their dining that Michelin can not provide them. A case in point is that there are NO Michelin stars in NOLA or even Dallas, Philadelphia, Atlanta, Miami, and Salt Lake, yet alone Pittsburgh, Birmingham, Fort Worth, L.A. and so many other major cities across the U.S."  I paused, "The challenge for you is two-fold: First is to set up a pragmatic criteria for the restaurant in those cities that is appropriate for the middle class; Second, your task is providing the guidelines that can be used by LOCAL personnel to perform in their evaluations. In a sense, I am suggesting you develop a pragmatic approach that can be readily applied across the U.S. Such an approach will include some sort evaluation of comfort, sharing, sauces, atmosphere, service, price, spirits value, quality. etc, as we have already discussed initially." As before in NOLA at the yacht club, Sara spoke up saying, "I think you may want to promote your approach via a marketing campaign titled 'The Toques of the Town.' We all laughed. With that said, I suggested that we head towards the restaurant. As we stood to leave the boat, Jazz once again jumped from the bow and sat on the promenade waiting for our arrival. Sara turned to me and said, "I do love this Jazz." I smiled with Chad not yet knowing of our plan for Jazz.

We passed the square where there were several minstrels working for tips. These performers are common on the weekends and would move from restaurant to restaurant along the promenade. Once at La Belle Etoile, we were graciously greeted by Tamarra, the wife of the Chef/Owner Manuel. "Bonne soirée mes amis. Welcome. I see two here that I don't know" With la biss around, I introduced Chad and Jazz. Tamarra continued, "I have the table prepared in the fresh air that you have always preferred." as she led them down the narrow walkway. With menus provided and taking their cocktail orders, she went inside to tell Manual of their arrival. She knew from the past that I enjoyed speaking with Manual directly regarding both the wine list and the menu for the evening. 

Tamarra returned shortly with the cocktails followed by an amuse-bouche for each; another cuisine point noted by Chad. She said that Chef would be out shortly to discuss the wine and menu. (Manuel was always referred to directly as 'Chef' when in the restaurant,) Dad spoke in Tamarrra's presence, "Chad, other than Tamarra being a most-gracious host, she is also responsible for the amuse-bouche offerings, which I have noticed to change every time I am here. Thank you." "You are welcome, mon ami. Here comes Chef." With firm handshakes and la biss with Wife, followed by an introduction of Chad and Jazz, Manuel sat down at the table, and Tamarra departed. After some quick catching-up, I introduced the Toque concept, "Chef, not now since you are very busy of course,  but Chad wishes to send you a brief description of what he is planning to do aligned with obtaining his Masters degree. As will be explained in greater detail via an email, he wishes to create a restaurant rating approach, similar to Michelin, but for a broader market of other than haute cuisine." I went on briefly to explain the two excursions that Chad would be taking during the trip to advance his education. With that done, Manuel discussed the menu and provided his recommendation for the wine. The orders were placed including the wine and a bowl of water for Jazz. He noted before returning to the kitchen, "As you remember Monsieur Zach, the seafood you have ordered was swimming this morning in the sea." I responded with a smile, "Of course, Chef.

 Within several minutes, Tamarra delivered a bottle of Coteaux du Languedoc Les Clapas Pas de l'Escalette in a chiller. But before doing a tasting, I requested Tamarra to bring a bottle of Veuve Clicquot, "There is some celebration we should address first. Also Tamarra, please bring a flute for yourself if you wish to join us. Also ask Chef to hold preparing our food order for 20 minutes or so as we enjoy the Champagne".  While waiting for the Champagne, I described several of the activities Sara and I would be enjoying while Chad was in the Institute. I explained that, "Only part of the 4 weeks will be spent sailing, and that would be a round trip to Corsica which is approximately 130 nautical miles each way." Hearing this, Sara raised her eyebrows with an exuberant expression of glee, "REALLY? That is so fantastic", and she reached over and kissed my cheek. I continued, "This means that one of us will be handling the helm and the other sleeping one night each way. Are you OK with that?" "Aye!, Aye! Captain. A great new sailing challenge for us."   

Before I could describe the other activities I had planned for the 4 weeks, Tamarra appeared with the 4 flutes, followed by the Champagne. With 3 of the flutes filled and hers only half way, I said. "Here is to this most remarkable trip for the family, and for Chad's extraordinary education-to-be that will serve him so well in his MBA program and beyond." 'Cheers' and tapping of flutes was made around. Tamarra finished her Champagne and left them to attend to other customers arriving. I continued to discuss the activities for the next 4 weeks. "With Mom's approval, we will be attending the infamous Jazz Festival in Nice and visiting the Exotic Gardens at the Rothschild Mansion across the bay in Cap Ferret. I also expect us to enjoy a number days on the beach at Plaque Petite Afrique located in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, the next village East. Of course Mom loves Plage Mala as I do, so at least one visit there. Sara again responded enthusiastically as she threw up her arms in excitement, "I am with you Monsieur."  Chad responded, "Mom, really? I have never seen you like this before." "Chad, this is the favorite spot in the world for your Dad and me. I hope you will feel the freedom that your Dad and I do when we are here. I wish you to open your heart and your mind to this wonderful environment. You know and understand NOLA for what it offers. But, here there is so so much more for you to enjoy."  With that the Champagne was finished, and Tamarra arrived to open the bottle of wine.

I did the tasting noting that I was familiar with the wines of Languedoc being of great value given the region's recent commercial appellation status. With my approval, Tamarra filled the 3 wine glasses. She then returned with a bowl of water for jazz, including glacons. As Jazz started slurping the water, Chad began, "Mom, Dad,  you have provided me with this most extraordinary experience along the Rivera. You two have not only been great parents, but also phenomenal role models. I am very positive about what I am pursuing and truly appreciate the importance of your support." As Mom wiped a tear from her cheeks, she said, ''Thank you Son." In a timely fashion, Tamarra arrived with a basket of artesian bread and a small bowl of olive oil with parmesan cheese on the side. Before he could ask, Tamarra turned to me, "Monsieur Zach, I will bring you a sampling of salts as you have always requested in the past." I nodded with a smile and turned to Chad, "I don't know what the rules are at the Institute as to your free time there, especially on the weekends, but if La Vie is here, then please use it as you wish. I only ask that if we are not here, and the boat is, that you have one other person with you if you wish to go sailing." "Absolutely, and thanks Dad." At that point, Tamarra and one assistant arrived with the plats. Sara and I had the Darne of Turbot, shellfish sauce, and Son had the Beef Filet, port jus. As I noticed during dinner is that Chad would oc casionally slip a few pieces of beef to Jazz that was by his side.

Once finished with their plats, Tamarra arrived to clear the dishes and ask about dessert. Uncommon for this family, I ordered 2 servings of the brownie with vanilla ice cream to be shared by all of us. As with the eggs, Chad commented on the rich yellow of the ice cream as well as its smooth, semi-gloss texture. I pointed out, "This is 'French Vanilla that includes egg yolks in the making. Also, I remember that Chef has the ice cream beaten smooth to breakup the ice crystals before being scooped; another cuisine note for Son.

Well satisfied with our meal and wine, I signaled Tamarra for la addition by crossing my hands in a 'T'.  Both Tamarra and Manuel came out to thank us for coming and wishing us back soon. I reminded Chef of the contact Son will have with him soon. With that the family stood, and I stated, "Always excellent Chef. Bonne nuit."

On the way back to La Vie, I suggested that we stop at the bar of Hotel Welcome where another acquaintance from the past worked. As expected, Fred, the manager, was there this night.  We sat at a table next to the promenade and Fred quickly approached us.  "Hello, Hello, my friends. I heard you were in the village on that very handsome boat across from here." I explained quickly our trip. At that point he said, "It is my pleasure to treat you all to your favorite of the past, green Chartreuse on the rocks." "Merci beaucoup, Fred. This is my son, Chad, and he will be attending the Institute de Francaise for the next 4 weeks. Therefore, I expect you will see more of him as well as Sara and me as we travel around for that period." While they waited for the drinks, Sara checked with Chad as to his preparation to go to the Institute the next day. Their conversation was light as they looked over the harbor and the lights reflecting from Cap Ferrat. When we finished our drinks, I left a €10 bill. and waved to Fred inside as we headed to the boat. I turned to Chad and asked him to walk Jazz in the nearby park. It was only another 15 minutes when all were onboard and prepared for bed with Jazz staying on the aft deck.